Changing Impressions

You can feel a change in the atmosphere in my Seminar House. When people aren't stressing about tests, they are more lively and friendly, smiling and taking photos with friends while they still can. People are beginning to realize that in less than two weeks, the dream land that is our Japan study abroad will be coming to an end.

I feel that through living here, I can live almost anywhere. I have gone through the experience of adjusting to a foreign culture, making friends, and trying new things. In short, I've taken something outside my comfort zone and placed it inside. But how has my impression of Japan itself changed?

I've learned so much, in class and out. One of the big changes I see is my understanding of Japanese cultural assimilation. You can't go far without seeing foreign influence in Japan, from McDonald's signs to extensive English words in the form of katakana. But since the time I arrived, I understand now that these things are uniquely Japanese. McDonald's has a specialized menu with things like Shaka Shaka Chicken and the a shrimp burger with a black sesame seed bun (ごまえび), and katakana words like バイキング (viking) and マンション (mansion) actually mean all-you-can-eat buffet and large apartment, respectively. I can appreciate now how they can take something foreign and make it their own. I first worried they were losing their culture, but in fact they're just creating it anew.

I'm also desensitized to a lot of things thanks to Japan. Weird flavors of candy, bad English, and cartoon characters on garbage trucks all seem perfectly normal to me. After 4 months of being bombarded with crazy things, I have just come to accept them as everyday life. Going back home will be a bit of a disappointment, I think; No custard-flavored Kit Kats or Cola Mentos, maple waffle-flavored koala chocolates or red-bean Pepsi either. But at least there will be Dr. Pepper! How I miss it, so.

 Sweet-potato flavored ice cream, and chili pepper flavored kit kat.

But what about the people, arguably the most important part of one's Japan experience? I have come to many realizations. First of all, Japanese come in every shape and size, and they most certainly do not "all look alike." I have seen more variation in Japanese faces than I have back home, almost. It is striking, the variety of noses, lips, and eyes they possess. I'm especially fascinated by eyebrows. They're so variegated here!

I feel like I've just gotten really used to Japan. It's hard for me to pinpoint lots of things specifically. I feel that seeing my home country will bring all of the differences to light, as well as the similarities.


Tyler

Kofun: Ancient Tombs of Japan

Just close to our Seminar House 4, there lies a tomb enshrouded by trees and paths just by the park. The tomb is very old, probably dating from before Nara period, and is a kofun.

Kofun are mounded tombs, similar to the round earth tombs that were made by Native Americans after 500BC. The ones in Japan are usually keyhole shaped and were probably built after 500 AD. The most famous of which is in Tokyo, and is called the Daisen Kofun. This kofun is keyhole-shaped! If you look at it on Google Earth, they imagery that makes it easy to see.



View Larger Map

The kofun near Seminar has a plaque, but it appears quite old and very hard to read. My Japanese is also limited, which makes deciphering the kanji ever more difficult. I shot the tablet at an angle to avoid glare on its marble surface, and then did some perspective correction to make it easier to read. I leave it to my readers, if they can, to decipher its meaning.

Walking up to the mound is like taking a step back into an older time in Japan. The kofun is surrounded by ancient-looking cobblestone paths and steps leading ever higher to the tomb.

There were children running up and down the steps, playing. I wonder how they feel about this location and if it is sacred or not? They looked like they were having fun, so I just let them be and continued up the steps. Here is the kofun as seen from the very top.

Please note that you can move around the panorama on your own by clicking and dragging with the mouse!



This location is a wonderful respite from the surrounding urban sprawl. Even the nearby park has an artifical quality to it; but this place feels much more in tune with nature, untouched since many hundreds of years ago. I wish more of this ancient, wooded Japan existed near me in Japan.


Tyler

Nara: Tōdai-ji Temple

On Saturday, I went with my Japanese speaking partner to Nara, Japan. Nara is a city located about an 90 minutes away from Hirakata Station. You can get there by going from Hirakata to Kyoto, and then on to Nara. For more details on how to get around by train, I recommend this website.

Nara has a wonderful downtown, replete with lovely buildings and shops. There were many foreigners there, but the shops didn't look geared for tourists specifically - they were shops for Japanese and foreigner alike. While waiting for her friends to arrive, we walked around and I shot this panorama at an intersection.




It's not my best one, for sure, but it was shot quickly and handheld, and it seems to be viewable! Do you see the powerlines overhead? They do not often bury cables in Japan; if an earthquake occurs and snaps a line underground, it's a lot harder to find and repair.

Our next stop was at Tōdai-ji Temple (東大寺), in the park. This world's tallest wooden structure houses a large golden-colored Buddha inside. This statue is referred to simply as daibutsu (大仏) and is the world's largest Buddha Vairocana statue. The structure used to be much taller, but it's on its third iteration; the temple has burned down twice before, and it was last rebuilt sometime in the 1700s. The temple is wonderfully and deceptively big. You don't realize its immensity until you've walked inside.

Also worthy of note are the large wooden columns that support the structure. One has a hole carved out at its base, and it's just big enough for a man to fit through. There was a line of about 6-10 people waiting to go through, and each one had their one-minute of fame as they made there way to the other side. Supposedly, you are reborn once you pass through, or so I was told.



So there you have it. This was my trip to Nara! I had a wonderful time.

Seeing Japan without the Rose-Colored Glasses...

I love Japan. There are so many wonderful things about its people, culture, and landscape that I just adore. However, even after just two months' of living here, I've noticed many things that I didn't expect out of Japan or Japanese people, and some of it's downright appalling to the uninitiated. Today I'm going to take a closer look at several things the typical foreigner wouldn't expect out of Japan, as well as some things that I've personally observed Japanese people doing that I thought I would never see in this country, of all places.

I've been clubbing a few times in Nanba, in what's commonly referred to as "Amerika-mura" or "America Village." It's a small district that caters to foreign tourists, particularly (yup, you guessed it) Americans. I always have a wonderful time while at the club, dancing and having fun with friends in the basement-level dance club called Pure.

When I come up to the surface, however, I'm greeted by the sight of flashy-looking Japanese men with wild hair and business suits. These men, known as "Hosts," are hired by host clubs to come and attract women to their club and be paid attention to by men. The attention can range from just talking, to flirting and sex, but that's less common. When I first saw these men, I was appalled. And the more you look at them, the worse you feel for them. These poor, 20-something guys are just going around, hoping to be noticed and get some commission for bringing a girl in. They don't have a real future, it seems to me. What's more, most of them are rather unattractive. That must make their job even harder.

  (imaged borrowed under CC from user JanneM)    

 

(image borrowed under CC from user Jim O'Connell/Magnesium)

Walking further down the street, you'll find trash. Everywhere. On the ground, and not in trashcans. This is very bizarre, because you can go for miles on a street in Japan without finding a piece of garbage, usually. As I continued to walk down the street, I was accosted by a man begging me for money. Then I saw another man with his friend, urinating on a closed shop's metal door. It was just so very different from everything else I'd seen in Japan. It seems that when the lights go down, Japan shows itself to not be the cutesy paradise some people believe it to be.

It's not all bad in that way, though. Some things are just an unfortunate result from bad economic times. I've seen a few homeless men in Osaka and Hirakata. They have blankets and bags to keep warm (I hope), and they have long beards. It's a downward spiral once you're homeless: your skills atrophy, your health worsens, and any hopes of recovery become further and further impossible to achieve. I haven't had a chance to speak with one. I'm not sure what I would say or ask them - I'd be more than a little nervous to ask them, too.

My eyes have certainly been opened . Each new time out at night reveals a more of the dark side of Japan. It's not all bad, mind you, but it's not an immaculate, pikachu-filled paradise either.

Annie Leibovitz and James Nachtwey: A Comparison

Annie Leibovitz and James Nachtwey have both captured the world through their lenses in exciting and groundbreaking ways. For them, photography is a way of life. James has never married or had children, and Annie once described her dedication as a "life through a lens." But the differences between their styles is striking: one inspires through creativity, and the other observes the world as it happens. Their realms of experience are as diverse as can be, nearly.  Both have incredible talent, and seem to have had a calling to practice photography.

         

                                  Anna-Lou "Annie" Leibovitz                                                 James Nachtwey

          (borrowed from http://fataculture.wordpress.com/tag/weekend-attractions/)          (http://look3.org/exhibits/gallery-exhibits/)

Let's start first by comparing their biographies. Leibovitz was born in 1949, and Nachtwey was born in 1948. They both studied art in college: Annie studied painting but found her interests in photography soon thereafter. James Nachtwey studied Art History and soon after decided to dedicate his life to the documentation of war and its effects on the common people of the world.

Where Leibovitz would take control, Natchwey would rather let events unfold naturally. He has photographed war and war atrocities from Sudan to Indonesia.  The grievous nature of his work is exemplified by his website, http://www.jamesnachtwey.com — a simple gray background, with a large quote prominently displayed, stating

"I have been a witness, and these pictures are

my testimony. The events I have recorded should

not be forgotten and must not be repeated."

Annie has worked for The Rolling Stones Magazine and Vanity Fair, among others, and has kept a good deal of control over her images. However, both photographers stress becoming a part of the scene and communing with their subjects. Rapport is vital to a good photograph. Annie, though, wouldn't be hesitant to recommend a different pose, or to change the lighting or location slightly to suit her needs for the picture. It is her attention to detail and deep consideration of her ideas that has made her so successful, in my opinion. Just take a look at some of the portrait work she's done over the years.

(http://teresalamarquesa.wordpress.com/2009/06/18/annie-leibovitz/)           (http://www.charitybuzz.com/celebrities/12/catalog_items/79843)

Her work captures people and exemplifies personalities in such a powerful and moving way. And the scenes look very relaxed and natural usually, despite being heavily planned.

James Nachtwey works quite the opposite way, and prefers to get close to the action without interfering. He becomes a seamless part of the scene and gives a world voice to those who might not otherwise have one. His work is primarily in Black and White, and always strikes me as being very clear and monumental.

And to me, his pictures always require a caption because the story behind the photo is so important. For Leibovitz photos, the picture often stands for itself because the explanation isn't necessarily historically significant or the subjects are celebrities and thus in the common knowledge.

Rwanda, 1994 - Survivor of Hutu death camp.

(http://www.jamesnachtwey.com/)

Chechnya, 1996 - Chechen rebel fighting along the front line against the Russian army.

(http://www.jamesnachtwey.com/)

Both photographers have put themselves in harm's way, but to me Nachtwey seems moreso in his pursuits, to me. He lives simply and has literally seen fellow photographers be shot and killed next to him while on the front lines of some skirmish or uprising. Leibovitz traveled with the Rolling Stones and participated in their partying - drugs, and the like - but I haven't read anything about her covering war.

I could keep going on, but I will suffice it at that. The images produced by Leibovitz capture your imagination, excite you, and inspire in you something great and fantastic. Her portraits are sometimes dark and can also show you the deeper side of people's lives. In her early years she captured many important images, including the one of John Lennon hours before his death.

Nachtwey's images reveal a world torn by war, but he remains uncynical in his thinking - he believes we can do better in this world than we are. His images, to me, are meant as a call to action, a realization of the terrible poverty that still exists in this world that many are not exposed to themselves. If you don't know what's happening in the world, then how can you change it?
-------

Addendum: 3/31/10

As visual anthropologists, we can learn much from the work of Annie and James. While much of Annie's work is guided by her hand, she manages to capture the essence of the person being photographed. It is with her suggestions and advice that the subject can express themselves in front of the camera. Often, people put on a "camera face" or similar false personality in front of the camera. It is up to the photographer to ease the subject out of that false personality and reveal the true person underneath. James Nachtwey's work is very in-the-moment and striking. From him, we can learn to be at the center of the action and not be hesitant about photographing what we see. Also, we know that Nacthwey talks to his subjects about his work and establishes a rapport with them. By speaking to your subject and getting to know them better, you will put them at ease and they will understand your reasons for photographing them. They will begin to relax and treat you less like an outsider. By understanding your subject, likewise, you will be able to photograph them better by knowing where to take them, how to pose, etc. It becomes a two-way street - a communication between photographer and subject.

That's it and good luck!

Tyler

Portrait of a Japanese Family

Two weeks ago, fate led me to meet a Japanese college student while I was at Round One Arcade. Since that time, we have been to Kyoto for sightseeing twice and have become very close friends.

On Friday, I was invited to his Grandparent's home for dinner. They prepared a wide selection of food for us - sushi, sashimi, chicken wings, potato salad, miso soup with pork, and beef. It was immense, and I regretted eating onigiri an hour before, as I couldn't finish all of the delicious food.

His grandparents were not quite what I was expecting. His grandmother reminded me a lot of my babysitter's mother from childhood - she looked rather Western in her clothing and appearance to me. She spoke a lot more than her husband did. No one here spoke English. I didn't get to see them much at first though, because they didn't eat dinner with us - they went upstairs while we ate. I was confused, and still am at the moment. I thought they were going to eat with us. There was certainly enough food!

This was taken very casually, with virtually no posing or pre-planning. What I love about this photo is the contrast between young and old - the grandparents are not smiling, and standing as they normally would. The two younger guys, though, are smiling and posing for the camera. I think it stems from olden days when cameras were less common, and even perhaps when you had to stand still for photos so they wouldn't blur.


As a parting gift, she gave me a Nagano guidebook (I'm headed there this weekend), and a box of sweets. I was so grateful. I will be sending them a return gift soon.


Tyler

Neighborhood Hirakata - 枚方市の近所

Today, I took my bike and started heading down nearby streets, in search of understanding my neighborhood.

My travels took my down a street, which quickly turned into a footpath after a block. While riding, I came across this rice field here:

This is a common sight in neighborhoods in Japan. Any spot of unused land is cultivated to grow a crop, usually rice. The shapes are sometimes irregular and match the terrain; you can find triangle shaped ones sometimes.

The homes in this area are very nice, especially when you comparea it to the area just south of my Seminar House. The people here must be very wealthy indeed to afford such large homes. Their family names are written in Kanji on a black placard by the front gate, as seen here:

Neighborhoods are well marked here, as well. Each new neighborhood has a sign posted nearby on a telephone pole. I saw two different neighborhoods on my way around, and they were only a few blocks large.

 

I will leave you with a panoramas of the immediate vicinity around my Seminar House. There's a beautiful park, and in this shot you can see the numerous cars waiting for the parking.

Hope you enjoyed the post!

 

Tyler